Cacio e Pepe

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Use less water than usual — about 2 litres — to get starchier pasta water.

Toast whole peppercorns in a dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Crack coarsely with a mortar or wrap in a cloth and crush with a heavy pan.

Finely grate both cheeses and mix together in a bowl. Add 2–3 tablespoons of warm pasta water and stir into a thick paste.

Cook pasta until 2 minutes before al dente. Reserve 2 cups of pasta water before draining.

Toast cracked pepper in a large skillet over medium heat for 1 minute. Add 1/2 cup pasta water and swirl.

Add the drained pasta to the skillet. Toss aggressively off the heat, adding pasta water a little at a time.

Add the cheese paste off the heat, tossing constantly and adding water to achieve a glossy, creamy sauce. Serve immediately.