
I wander through Mae Hia Fresh Market at night, chasing the bold kick of durian with a gentle scoop of ice cream that tastes like a dream from a street stall before it becomes a memory. This home-style recreation began as a curious bite between visits to fancy restaurants and the hum of night market chatter, where the durian’s bright aroma lingered like a travel story on my tongue. The cream swirled softly, and my companions—an old friend and a stray cat that sniffed the air—both seemed to understand that flavor can travel farther than a passport.
”Warm milk and cream with half the sugar in a saucepan until just steaming; remove from heat.
Whisk egg yolks with remaining sugar until pale, then temper with a little hot milk mixture and return all to the pan.
Cook on low, stirring, until custard coats the back of a spoon (82–85°C (185°F)) then strain and cool slightly.
Blend cooled custard with durian flesh, vanilla, lime juice, salt and optional coconut milk or rum until smooth.
Chill mixture thoroughly (2–4 hr) in fridge, then churn in an ice cream maker per manufacturer directions.
Transfer to a container and freeze 4+ hours until scoopable; serve with a small piece of fresh durian if desired.
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